Dual-Clutch Transmissions (DCT)

How Does a Dual-Clutch Transmission (DCT) Work?

John Baker | Jan 02, 2020 11:43 AM

A dual-clutch transmission (DCT) is synonymous with high performance. Compared to a traditional automatic transmission, it delivers…

• Faster, smoother shifts
• Increased fuel economy
• Improved performance

Although the DCT transmission dates to the 1930s, it made its first practical appearance decades later in several 1980s-era race cars.

In 2003, the Volkswagen Golf Mk4 R32 was the first production vehicle to feature the technology.

Today you can find a DCT in a variety of cars, from the relatively tame Hyundai Sonata to the brash, sexy Nissan GT-R.

How a DCT transmission works

DCTs are essentially two manual transmissions working in tandem.

One gear shaft contains the even-numbered gears, and the other contains the odd-numbered gears. While you’re accelerating in first gear, for example, the computer selects second gear on the other gear shaft. When it’s time to up-shift, the clutch that controls the even gears disengages and the clutch that controls the odd gears engages.

Compared to a traditional automatic transmission, gears shift much more quickly and smoothly in a DCT transmission – the perfect complement to a powerful, high-performance engine.

While DCTs are capable of seamless shifts, they can suffer from shudder or lurching at slow speeds.

Transmission fluid with specific frictional properties is required to prevent shudder. DCT fluid must also maintain the proper viscosity to provide protection during the high-heat operation native to high-performance sports sedans and supercars.

Buy AMSOIL DCT Fluid

Protect the thrill

AMSOIL 100% Synthetic DCT Fluid is specifically engineered for sophisticated dual-clutch transmissions.

Its superior frictional properties protect against shudder and gear clashing to consistently produce fast, smooth shifts.

AMSOIL Synthetic DCT Fluid’s exceptional durability provides stability in stop-and-go traffic and excels under intense, high-heat conditions. Its built-in oxidation resistance helps prevent sludge formation in vital transmission parts.

Look up your vehicle

For more information on AMSOIL DCT Fluid click here.

For more information on AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants click here.

New ILSAC GF-6A & GF-6B Motor Oil Specs For Modern Engines

ILSAC GF-6 and API SP specifications coming May 1. 

AMSOIL is already ahead of the game.

Original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) are under pressure to improve fuel economy and reduce emissions. As a result, most new engines today use some combination of turbochargers, direct-fuel injection and variable valve timing to deliver better fuel economy and increase horsepower. The trend of lighter engine oils to achieve these goals continues with 0W-16 viscosities emerging in the market and 0W-12 and 0W-8 expected to follow. The industry has responded to these ultra-light viscosities with two new oil specifications: ILSAC GF-6 and API SP.

We Are Already There

Our claims about using advanced technology aren’t just talk, and this specification update proves it. AMSOIL synthetic motor oils already meet or exceed the new industry standards and require no change in formulation. This is not the first time we’ve been in this position. While the competition works on making major formulation adjustments, we just have to update our labels. The new specifications are not allowed to be displayed on labels until May 1, 2020. Expect to see updated AMSOIL labels then.

The Big Split

The International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC) recently set a new precedent in the passenger-car motor oil market by splitting its specification into two parts: 

GF-6A – backward compatible, provides protection for a variety of older and newer engines.


GF-6B – not backward compatible, for use in select new vehicles. 

Both versions focus on wear protection, prevention of lowspeed pre-ignition (LSPI) and improved engine cleanliness. However, GF-6B features a more stringent fuel economy test. Engine oils can easily be identified as ILSAC GF-6A or 6B by the API emblem on the front label of the packaging. A shield will represent the GF-6B specification, while the traditional starburst will indicate a GF-6A product. Both ILSAC specifications meet the industry-standard API SP specification which is most commonly found in owners’ manuals. 

To learn more, visit amsoil.com/lspi
 

What to do when a lawnmower won't start

Lawnmower Won’t Start? Do this.

A lawnmower that won’t start, especially when taken from storage, is almost always due to one problem: bad gas.

Storing a lawnmower in the fall without adding gasoline stabilizer to the fuel tank can cause the fuel to break down and plug the fuel passages. If fixing that problem doesn’t help, there are a few other common maintenance practices to try, as we explain below.

Here’s what to do when your lawnmower won’t start

Replace the gas

Over time (like the six months your lawnmower sat in your garage over the winter), the lighter hydrocarbons in gas can evaporate. This process creates gums and varnish that dirty the carburetor, plug fuel passages and prevent gas from flowing into the combustion chamber.

The carburetor bowl below formed corrosion and deposits during storage, which can easily plug fuel passages and prevent the engine from starting.

Ethanol-containing gas can absorb water from the atmosphere, which can lead to phase separation, which occurs when ethanol and gas separate, much like oil and water. Ethanol that has absorbed enough moisture and has sat long enough can foul the fuel system and prevent the engine from starting.

No matter how many times you yank the starter cord and pollute the air with your advanced vocabulary, the lawnmower won’t start if it isn’t getting gas.

In extreme cases, evaporation of lighter hydrocarbons can change the gasoline’s composition enough to prevent it from igniting. The gas may be fueling the engine, but it doesn’t matter if it won’t ignite.

If you neglected to add gasoline stabilizer to the fuel prior to storage, empty the tank and replace with fresh gas. If the tank is nearly empty, simply topping off with fresh gas is often enough to get it started.

On some mowers, you can easily remove and empty the fuel tank. Sometimes that’s more trouble than it’s worth. In these cases, use a fluid extraction pump or even a turkey baster.

Clean the carburetor

You’ve replaced the fuel, but your lawnmower still won’t start.

Next, try cleaning the carburetor. Remove the air filter and spray carburetor cleaner into the intake. Let it sit for several minutes to help loosen and dissolve varnish and gums.

On some carburetors, you can easily remove the float bowl. If equipped, first remove the small drain plug and drain the gas from the bowl. Remove the float bowl cover and spray the float and narrow fuel passages with carburetor cleaner.

This kind of “quick-and-dirty” carburetor cleaning is usually all it takes to get the gas flowing again and your lawnmower back to cutting grass.

If not, consider removing the carburetor from the engine, disassembling it and giving it a good cleaning. Be forewarned, however: taking apart a carburetor can lead to nothing but frustration for the uninitiated. Take pictures with your phone to aid in reassembly. Note the positions of any linkages or the settings of any mixture screws, if equipped.

If you’re at all reluctant, visit the servicing dealer instead. Also consider replacing the carburetor altogether. It’s a fairly simple process on most smaller mowers and it’s often less expensive than taking it to the dealer.

Clean/replace the air filter

With the air filter removed, now’s the perfect time to clean it. Tap rigid filters on a workbench or the palm of your hand to dislodge grass clippings, leaves and other debris. Direct compressed air from the inside of the filter out to avoid lodging debris deeper into the media.

Use soap and water to wash foam filters. If it’s been a few years, simply replace the filter; they’re inexpensive and mark the only line of defense against wear-causing debris entering your engine and wearing the cylinder and piston rings.

Check the spark plug

A dirty or bad spark plug may also be to blame. Remove the plug and inspect condition. A spark plug in a properly running four-stroke engine should last for years and never appear oily or burned. If so, replace it.

Use a spark-plug tester to check for spark. If you don’t have one, clip the spark-plug boot onto the plug, hold the plug against the metal cylinder head and slowly pull the starter cord. You should see a strong, blue spark. It helps to test the plug in a darkened garage. Replace the plug if you don’t see a spark or it appears weak.

While you’re at it, check the spark-plug gap and set it to the factory specifications noted in the lawnmower owner’s manual.

If you know the plug is good, but you still don’t have spark, the coil likely has failed and requires replacement.

Did you hit a rock or other obstacle?

We’ve all killed a lawnmower engine after hitting a rock or big tree root.

If your lawnmower won’t start in this scenario, you probably sheared the flywheel key. It’s a tiny piece of metal that aligns the flywheel correctly to set the proper engine timing. Hitting an immovable obstacle can immediately stop the mower blade (and crankshaft) while the flywheel keeps spinning, shearing the key.

In this case, the engine timing is off and the mower won’t start until you pull the flywheel and replace the key. It’s an easy enough job IF you have a set of gear pullers lying around the garage. If not, rent a set from a parts store (or buy one…there’s never a bad reason to buy a new tool) or visit the dealer.

My lawnmower starts, but runs poorly

If you finally get the lawnmower started, but it runs like a three-legged dog, try cleaning the carburetor with AMSOIL Power Foam. It’s a potent cleaning agent designed to remove performance-robbing carbon, varnish and other gunk from carburetors and engines.

AMSOIL Power Foam Carb Cleaner

Add gasoline stabilizer to avoid most of these problems

Which sounds better? Completing all these steps each year when your lawnmower won’t start? Or pouring a little gasoline stabilizer into your fuel tank?

Simply using a good gasoline stabilizer can help avoid most of the problems with a lawnmower that won’t start. AMSOIL Gasoline Stabilizer, for example, keeps fuel fresh up to 12 months. It helps prevent the lighter hydrocarbons from evaporating to reduce gum and varnish and keep the fuel flowing. It also contains corrosion inhibitors for additional protection.

AMSOIL Gasoline Stabilizer

I have a five-gallon gas can in my garage from which I fuel two lawnmowers, two chainsaws, two snowblowers, a string trimmer, an ATV and the occasional brush fire. I treat the fuel with Gasoline Stabilizer every time I fill it so I never have to worry about the gas going bad and causing problems.

You can also use AMSOIL Quickshot. It’s designed primarily to clean carburetors and combustion chambers while addressing problems with ethanol. But it also provides short-term gasoline stabilization of up to six months.

Sludge or Slime in the Radiator

 What causes radiator sludge/slime and what can you do about it?

• Additives dropping out: Coolant consists of a base (typically ethylene glycol or propylene glycol) mixed with additives and water. The base is primarily responsible for providing freeze and boil-over protection. The additives guard against corrosion, cavitation and scaling. Mixing of incompatible coolants can cause the additives to “drop out” of the solution and form sludge or slime.

• Contaminated coolant: A bad head gasket or cracked cylinder head can allow oil and coolant to mix, resulting in sludge. In vehicles with automatic transmissions, the engine-cooling system also cools the transmission. A breach in the system can contaminate coolant with transmission fluid.

• Corrosion: Occurs when an imbalanced coolant chemically reacts with metallic surfaces, forming reddish deposits that can appear as sludge or slime. 

Low-quality coolants can lead to cooling-system corrosion.

Performing fluid analysis is the only way to definitively identify what’s causing sludge/slime in your radiator. The report can identify oil, transmission fluid or other contaminants in the coolant.

Fix any mechanical defects and flush the cooling system. Refill with a high-quality antifreeze/coolant.

What kind of coolant should I use? 

Let’s start with what kind you should avoid.

You’re no doubt familiar with the conventional “green” coolants found at most retailers due to their low price. They contain inorganic salts, such as nitrites, phosphates and silicates.

Inorganic salts deplete quickly – typically in two years or less – and are on the environmental watch list. Once depleted, they are the source of common cooling-system problems, like scale deposits and sludge/slime.

Low-cost “green” coolants are the source of several problems, such as radiator sludge/slime and scale deposits.

For these reasons, most vehicle manufacturers have moved away from inorganic salts. 

And so should you. 

Instead, use a high-quality coolant that uses organic-acid technology (known as OATs). OATS coolants are much more robust and longer-lasting. They virtually eliminate drop-out, scaling and compatibility issues inherent to inorganic salts. This type of coolant can be used in a wide variety of applications, even mixing with other coolants as a top-off. 

AMSOIL Antifreeze/Coolants

AMSOIL offers three coolants, all of which offer a unique blend of organic acids. We use di-acid technology, which means both ends of the organic acid are active. This makes them work faster and form stronger bonds for enhanced protection. 

AMSOIL Passenger Car & Light Truck Antifreeze & Coolant is formulated for all passenger cars and light trucks. It is premixed 50/50 with high-quality water.

AMSOIL Passenger Car & Light Truck Antifreeze & Coolant

AMSOIL Heavy-Duty Antifreeze & Coolant is dialed in for the unique needs of on- and off-road heavy-duty applications. It is also premixed 50/50 with high-quality water.

AMSOIL Heavy-Duty Antifreeze & Coolant

AMSOIL Low Toxicity Antifreeze and Engine Coolant is a 100-percent concentrate polyglycol formulation for situations that call for a low-toxicity product.

AMSOIL Low Toxicity Antifreeze and Engine Coolant

Zinc Wear Prevention in Motor Oil

Do Older Engines Need Oil With ZDDP Additives?

What is high-zinc motor oil?

Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) is the most common zinc-based additive and is used primarily as an anti-wear agent to prevent premature engine wear. It also provides corrosion and oxidation protection.

However, because the zinc and phosphorus found in ZDDP can negatively affect catalytic converters, it has been phased out of motor oil formulations in recent years.

Reducing ZDDP has drawbacks, as classic-car owners have found. Older vehicles with flat-tappet camshafts and, in particular, engines that include high-tension valve springs or other modifications that create high contact pressures, can suffer premature wear due to reduced ZDDP levels.

For best protection, engine builders and gearheads typically use high-zinc and high-phosphorus motor oil to offer extra protection for flat-tappet cams, lifters and other components during break-in. AMSOIL Break-In Oil, for example, contains 2,200 ppm zinc and 2,000 ppm phosphorus.

Buy AMSOIL Break-in Oil

How do ZDDP additives work?

ZDDP anti-wear additives are heat-activated, meaning they provide wear protection in areas of increased friction.

As temperatures rise and surfaces come closer together, ZDDP decomposes and the resulting chemistry protects critical metal surfaces. When parts move during operation, any sliding or rolling motion takes place on top of or within the ZDDP anti-wear film, which reduces metal-to-metal contact.

Flat Tappet Lifters

This is especially important in engines with flat-tappet camshafts or engines modified to create more horsepower. High-tension valve springs, often used in racing applications, also increase the potential for cam wear and require additional ZDDP.

Flat-tappet cams vs. roller cams

The design of flat-tappet cams makes them especially vulnerable to wear. As the name indicates, the tappet – or lifter – is flat. During operation, the cam-lobe slides rapidly over the tappet, increasing friction and temperatures.

A thin oil film is the only barrier that prevents the lifter and cam lobe from welding together.

If the oil film fails or provides insufficient wear protection, the two components can eventually wear the flat-tappet cam and affect valve operation. Engine power and efficiency can decline if the flat-tappet cam cannot lift the valves enough to adequately charge the chamber for ignition or release exhaust fumes. Because most V-8 engines of the muscle-car era came standard with flat-tappet cams, the problem is especially prevalent to classic-car and hot rod owners.

Roller cams, on the other hand, are differentiated by rolling contact rather than sliding contact. Although costlier, roller cams are common in most modern vehicles and can be retrofitted into classic-car and hot-rod engines.

The role of piston rings

Even though Hugh didn’t ask about it specifically, I should also mention the importance of seating the piston rings during break-in.

Although a new or freshly honed cylinder appears smooth to the naked eye, it actually contains microscopic peaks and valleys. If the valleys are too deep, they collect excess oil, which burns during combustion and leads to oil consumption.

The sharp peaks, meanwhile, provide insufficient area to allow the rings to seat tightly. That means highly pressurized combustion gases can blow past the rings and into the crankcase, reducing horsepower and contaminating the oil.

Breaking in the engine wears the cylinder-wall asperities, providing increased surface area for the rings to seat tightly. The result is maximum compression (i.e. power) and minimum oil consumption.

Do you always need an oil with ZDDP additives?

Do you need to use high-zinc motor oil in an older engine after break-in, which is typically about 500 miles?

Yes, if you want to maintain horsepower and promote longevity. 

Even after the cam has seasoned, it’s still exposed to tremendous heat and pressure, especially in a heavily modified or racing engine. The constant barrage of pressure can rupture the oil film responsible for preventing wear, leading to metal-to-metal contact.

After break-in, we recommend using an oil with at least 1,000 ppm ZDDP in a flat-tappet engine. That way, you’re providing your expensive engine with maximum protection against wear and horsepower loss.

AMSOIL Z-Rod Synthetic Motor Oil, our primary recommendation for classic cars and hot rods, contains more than 1,400 ppm zinc and more than 1,300 ppm phosphorus.

Buy AMSOIL Z-Rod 10W-30 High Zinc Synthetic Motoroil

Buy AMSOIL Z-Rod 20W-50 High Zinc Synthetic Motoroil

That’ll keep your classic car running for the long haul.

AMSOIL Signature Series

Signature Series: Maintains Protective Viscosity

The main bearings in your vehicle rely on an oil film thinner than a sheet of paper. When motor oil loses viscosity due to a process called shear, it can fail to provide the required level of wear protection.

Shear (often called mechanical shear) occurs when one layer of oil moves in the opposite direction of another layer of the same oil. This often occurs between the piston and cylinder wall. These two oil films move in opposite directions under intense heat and pressure.

AMSOIL synthetic motor oil features naturally shear-resistant base oils combined with top-tier viscosity improvers to withstand extreme heat and shearing forces. In fact, Signature Series fights viscosity breakdown better than the competition*, providing superior protection of pistons, cams and bearings.

Signature Series stands up to the potentially devastating effects of viscosity breakdown and provides maximum engine protection.

*Based on independent testing of AMSOIL Signature Series, Schaeffer’s Supreme 9000 Full Synthetic, Lucas Synthetic, Valvoline Conventional Daily Protection, Mobil 1 Annual Protection and Pennzoil 5W-30 in the Kurt OrbahnTest. Oils purchased on 5/3/18.

For product information on AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil.

Understanding European Motor Oil Standards

European Motor Oil Specifications Explained

It’s important to use the right motor oil for your European vehicle, but the sea of specifications can make it a challenge. AMSOIL European Car Formula finds the sweet spot of emission compatibility and complete engine protection for every application.

The European Automobile Manufacturers’ Association (ACEA) establishes lubricant standards for Europe, similar to the American Petroleum Institute (API) in the United States. ACEA recognizes that European engines differ from U.S. engines in both design and operating conditions. European OEMs often maintain their own motor oil performance specifications and play a larger role in their development than their U.S. counterparts. Volkswagen* drivers, for example, must use an oil that meets the requirements of VW’s own performance specs. The same holds for Mercedes*, BMW*, Porsche* and other European vehicles. 

Many European vehicles available in North America today feature gasoline and diesel engines with emissions systems that are highly sensitive to the SAPS content of motor oil. These advanced emissions systems require lower SAPS formulations to properly function for a long period of time. The required formulations match the exacting engine oil specifications of ACEA and European OEMs to ensure they are compatible with current emissions systems while still providing engine protection.

EUROPEAN CAR FORMULA SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL

• Engineered to meet or exceed European MANUFACTURERS.SPECIlCATIONS
• Balanced formulations that consider the needs of modern exhaust treatment devices
• Excellent protection for gasoline and diesel engines
• Fights sludge for superior engine cleanliness

*All trademarked names and images are the property of their respective owners and may be registered marks in some countries.No affiliation endorsement claim, express or implied, is made by their use. All products advertised here are developed by AMSOIL for use in the applications shown.

AMSOIL Severe Gear Synthetic Gear Lube Beats Mobil 1 & Valvoline

FOR THE ULTIMATE COLD-WEATHER PROTECTION, TRUST AMSOIL 

Some gear lubes fail to meet basic low-temperature requirements.

Mobil 1 75W-140 Gear Oil, for example, failed to meet the requirements of the industry standard*. AMSOIL SEVERE GEAR®, on the other hand, delivers 20% more cold-temperature protection than the standard requires. It delivers better cold-temperature protection than Mobil 1 and Valvoline SynPower.

*Based upon results of samples of Mobil 1 75W-140 and Valvoline SynPower 75W-140 purchased in 2018 and tested in ASTM D2983 by an independent testing facility in May 2018. Samples sent blind to eliminate bias.

Signature Series Keeps Engines Cleaner Than Other Synthetic Motor Oils

AMSOIL Signature Series

In general, the higher an oil’s TBN, the better its ability to neutralize contaminants such as combustion by-products and acidic materials. Higher TBN oils neutralize a greater amount of acidic material, which results in longer oil life and cleaner engines.

TBN levels decrease as the oil remains in service. When the level reaches a point where it can no longer protect against corrosion, the oil must be changed.

The TBN Test

The Total Base Number Test (ASTM D2896) uses a series of chemical reactions to measure the alkaline additives in a motor oil. We recognize the value of formulating motor oils with high TBN, and AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil features the highest TBN of the oils tested.

AMSOIL Signature Series is fortified with a heavy treatment of detergent additive and it delivers 30% more acid neutralizing power1 than Mobil 1, and 36% more than Royal Purple, helping engines to stay cleaner, longer.

The AMSOIL Advantage

AMSOIL synthetic lubricants feature a large dose of quality additives that consistently deliver high TBN for the life of the oil. They neutralize acidic contaminants and keep them in suspension to maximize engine protection. AMSOIL lubricants use detergent and dispersant additives to significantly reduce sludge and carbon deposit formation. In the Total Base Number Test (ASTM D2896), AMSOIL Signature Series 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil demonstrated the highest TBN of the oils featured in the test, helping it deliver reliable protection for extended drain intervals.

1Based upon independent testing of Mobil 1 Annual Protection Full Synthetic 5W-30, Royal Purple High Performance 5W-30 and AMSOIL Signature Series 5W-30 in ASTM D2896. Oils purchased 05/03/18.

All trademarked names and images are the property of their respective owners and may be registered marks in some countries. No affiliation or endorsement claim, express or implied, is made by their use. All products advertised here are developed by AMSOIL for use in the applications shown.

AMSOIL SABER® PROFESSIONAL

AMSOIL Saber® Professional Proves Itself In Stihl® String Trimmers

Professional-use string trimmers, mowers, backpack blowers and other equipment can run continuously in hot, wet and dirty conditions for months straight. In these conditions, equipment can wear out seasonally, representing the perfect environment for putting AMSOIL products to the test.

Get the SABER’s edge

Before the 2016 summer landscaping season, we purchased three new STIHL FS56RC string trimmers and gave them to Duluth Lawn Care, based in Duluth, Minn. The company relies on a fleet of professional-use mowers, string trimmers and other equipment to provide fast, high-quality lawn-mowing and other services to its 4,500 clients. Historically, the company accumulates about 600 hours per season on each of its string trimmers prior to replacement.

Typical use included continuous daily operation in high heat; wet, humid conditions; exposure to airborne dirt and other contaminants and the general daily abuse of professional-use equipment. 

Each trimmer accumulated approximately 600 hours – far more time than the average homeowner puts on a trimmer. After the season, we disassembled the trimmers and checked for wear, carbon buildup and other distress. Select results are shown here.

After a full season of severe-service at mixed 100:1, AMSOIL SABER Professional...

• Prevented piston-ring sticking for maximum power
• Eliminated carbon deposits in the exhaust port for optimum airflow and power
• Fought engine wear for reliable operation
• Reduced oil costs 65%

SABER fights carbon

Heavy carbon build up can be a problem in professional-use equipment. Oils with poor detergency allow carbon to form in the piston ring lands, on the piston crown, in the exhaust port and on the spark arrestor screen. Carbon chokes off airflow through the engine, robbing the engine of power. It also causes the piston rings to stick in their grooves and fail to form a tight seal against the cylinder wall. The engine loses compression, leading to power loss. This adds up to frustrated workers in the field who can’t work as quickly or efficiently as they need to complete jobs on time and up to standards.

As the images show, SABER Professional nearly eliminated carbon deposits to keep Duluth Lawn Care’s STIHL trimmers running strong all season.

Cuts oil costs

Duluth Lawn Care also saved money on total oil cost. Mixing SABER Professional at 100:1 saved them 65% compared to the cost they would have paid had they used the original equipment manufacturer oil at the conventional 50:1 mix ratio.

Given SABER’s excellent performance, we reassembled the trimmers and returned them to Duluth Lawn Care, allowing the company to use its trimmers longer than historically possible with other oils.

For more information on or to buy AMSOIL Saber synthetic 2 cycle oil click here.

AMSOIL Signature Series and Turbochargers

AMSOIL Signature Series Protects Turbochargers

The turbocharger/direct fuel injection combo has emerged as automakers’ favored choice for producing powerful engines and meeting government fuel-economy requirements. The increased airflow turbos generate enables an engine to burn more fuel and produce more power, but this power comes at a cost. The tremendous heat and stress turbos create cause some oils to break down and form harmful bearing deposits through a process known as turbo coking. Over time, turbos can suffer reduced performance or fail altogether.

How Turbos Could Slow You Down

The deposits common to turbochargers can lead to:

• Blocked oil passages, oil starvation and eventual failure
• Reduced turbine speed – resulting in lower boost pressures, reduced performance and poor efficiency
• Oil breakdown and oil burning
• Expensive turbo rebuild or replacement 

The GM Turbo Coking Test

The Turbo Coking Test was designed to simulate the extreme operating conditions of a turbocharged engine. It evaluates a motor oil’s ability to resist deposit buildup in the oil passages and bushings of a turbocharger. Temperature increases within the turbo and the weight of any deposits are recorded.   

Test Parameters

Engine   -  2012 GM 1.4L

Duration   -  2,000 cycles of extreme heat soaks – approximately 537 hours

Measures   -  A motor oil’s ability to resist deposits in a turbocharger’s oil passages and bushings

Simulates   -   High-heat operation of a turbocharged engine 

Requirement   -  Temperature change within the turbocharger limited to 13 percent

Signature Series protects turbochargers 72% better than required by GM dexos1® Gen 21

The GM Turbo Coking Test requires an oil to limit the temperature change within the turbocharger to 13 percent or less to pass the test. Signature Series limited the temperature increase to only 3.6 percent, controlling heat and proving it protects against deposits common to high-temperature engine environments.

For more information or to buy AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil

1Based on independent testing of AMSOIL Signature Series 5W-30 in the GM Turbo Coking Test as required for the GM dexos1 Gen 2 specification.

*All trademarked names and images are the property of their respective owners and may be registered marks in some countries. No affiliation or endorsement claim, express or implied, is made by their use. All products advertised here are developed by AMSOIL for use in the applications shown.

AMSOIL Synthetic Diesel Oil

AMSOIL Synthetic Diesel Oil Greatly Outperforms Minimum Standards

AMSOIL Diesel Oil Offers Best Protection

Shell* recently announced that a sample of “Mobil Delvac 1300* Super 15W-40 did not meet the passing limits for either API CK-4 performance standards, nor the more stringent requirements for Volvo*, MACK* and Cummins*.” The 360-hour Volvo T-13 test measures both oxidation and Kinematic Viscosity, indicating an oil’s ability to resist thermal and chemical breakdown and maintain its protective viscosity in the severe operating environments experienced by diesel engines. Oxidation resistance is critical in order to protect against oil thickening and deposit formation and extend engine life.

AMSOIL has earned the trust of diesel enthusiasts and people who depend on diesel power to make a living. We engineer our synthetic diesel oils to exceed minimum standards and outperform the competition. In independent laboratory testing, AMSOIL Signature Series Max-Duty Synthetic Diesel Oil passed the Volvo T-13 oil oxidation test with flying colors (see graphs below), and it provides 6X more engine protection1, keeping hard-working diesel engines on the road and on the job.

For more information or to buy AMSOIL Synthetic Diesel Oil click here.

*All trademarked names are the property of their respective owners and may be registered marks in some countries. No affiliation or endorsement claim, express or implied, is made by their use.
1than required by the Detroit Diesel DD13 Scuffing Test for Specification DFS 93K222 using 5W-30 as worst-case representation.

AMSOIL Signature Series Battles Sludge

AMSOIL Signature Series Battles Engine Sludge

Synthetic motoroil

The health of your engine depends on motor oil circulating quickly and efficiently through the system, but sticking components and obstructed passages inhibit motor oil from lubricating, cooling and protecting your engine. Engine “sludge” occurs when oxidized oil and contaminants build up on engine surfaces. It can restrict the flow of oil to the point of engine failure and costly repairs.

Sludge: Where It Starts & How It Ends

The valve cover and oil pan are generally the first areas sludge appears.
The oil pick-up tube screen is often the next spot it accumulates, impeding oil flow through the system.
What begins as a thin film of lacquer or varnish deposits eventually bakes into an expensive mess.

The Sequence VG Engine Test

Engine failures due to sludge are often caused by a clogged pick-up tube screen – the motor is effectively starved of oil. The Sequence VG Engine Test determines how well an oil resists sludge formation and keeps the lubricant flowing freely throughout the system. The test is required for API SN PLUS – a specification recommended by most domestic vehicle manufacturers.

TEST PARAMETERS

Engine

Ford* 4.6L V-8 

Duration

216 hours

Measures

Sludge and varnish deposits, piston ring sticking, clogged oil pump screens and roller pin wear

Simulates

Taxi, delivery or commuter vehicle service

Requirement

Oil pick-up tube screen limited to 10 percent blockage

The Results

Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil was subjected to the Sequence VG to measure its ability to prevent sludge. As expected, Signature Series produced an oil pick-up tube screen virtually free from sludge (see image). Our unique combination of detergents and high-quality base oils control oxidation and sludge to keep engines clean and efficient. 

Signature Series has 50 percent more detergents1 to help keep oil passages clean and promote oil circulation. It provides 90% better protection against sludge2.

1 vs. AMSOIL OE Motor Oil 
2 Based on independent testing of AMSOIL Signature Series 5W-30 in the ASTM D6593 engine test for oil screen plugging as required for the API SN PLUS specification.   
*All trademarked names and images are the property of their respective owners and may be registered marks in some countries. No affiliation or endorsement claim, express or implied, is made by their use. All products advertised here are developed by AMSOIL for use in the applications shown.

New SEVERE GEAR® Easy-Pack

AMSOIL SEVERE GEAR® Easy-Pack

AMSOIL Easy Packs

Enthusiasts pride themselves on finding their own solutions to tough problems. When there’s no manual, they roll up their sleeves and make it work. But even the most inventive gearhead inevitably throws down an oily rag and wonders why the process has to be so difficult. Changing gear lube is often one of those frustrating tasks.

Differentials Require Service

A clean, high-quality gear lube helps prevent the howls and whines that can occur from extended periods of metal-to-metal contact. It provides differentials and transmissions with crucial protection – particularly against the rigors of towing and hauling – and it should be changed on a schedule to protect your pickup. Unfortunately, changing this vital fluid doesn’t come without challenges.      

Tight Squeeze

Removing the cover on your “pumpkin” and draining the fluid might not be difficult, but installing new fluid requires the ability to push liquid uphill. Unless the pickup is lifted, differentials are packed in high and tight. Reaching fill holes is difficult, and you cannot tip the bottles at an angle that allows the fluid to run into the differential with the help of gravity.

Troublesome Current Solutions

That’s why most gear lube is sold in conical plastic bottles. The idea is that you’ll be able to squeeze the gear lube from the bottle and force it into your diff. Unfortunately, those bottles are rigid and hard to squeeze. You cannot get all of the fluid out of the bottle, so you end up buying more than you truly need to get the job done. Pumps are an improvement, but even those can be leaky or require a third hand to operate without major spillage.

The Mess

No matter your method (pump or conical bottle), it seems impossible to service differentials without making a big mess.

The AMSOIL Solution

The new AMSOIL easy-pack eliminates all of the old obstacles.

Easily access hard-to-reach fill holes. The packaging is flexible. Just bend it until the nozzle is pointing where you need it to be and insert it into the fill hole.

Easily squeeze out entire contents. Empty the easy-pack into your differential with no waste and no mess.

AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W-90 and 75W-140 100% Synthetic Gear Lube (SVG, SVO) continue to provide the same great performance.

High film strength for high-load demands
Reduces friction and provides the ultimate protection against wear
Helps maintain efficiency
Well-suited for towing, hauling, racing, commercial use or other severe duty
Durable easy-pack makes the job cleaner and faster     

For more information or to buy Synthetic 75W-90 and 75W-140 Gear Lube

AMSOIL OE 0W-16 Synthetic Motor Oil

Provides Advanced Wear Protection

A 0W-16 viscosity motor oil may seem exotic to North American drivers, but as fuel efficiency requirements increase, it may become a common recommendation of manufacturers worldwide. Japanese engineers have long experimented with ultra-thin motor oils, and 0W-16 has been in regular use in Japan since the 90s.

The Benefits of Going Thin

Lower viscosity motor oil can increase fuel economy, and the pressure to create engines that sip less fuel has hastened the introduction of these viscosities to North America. The stated fuel mileage estimates for several 2018 vehicles were calculated with 0W-16 motor oil installed. Beyond fuel economy, lower viscosity oil can also provide excellent cold-starts in the most frigid temperatures.

OE 0W-16 Synthetic Motor Oil

The primary concern with low viscosity oil is wear protection. Like the rest of the OE line, OE 0W-16 develops a strong fluid film that keeps metal components separated and protected. Our work didn’t end with simply blending a new viscosity. OE 0W-16 Synthetic Motor Oil (OES) is formulated with unique anti-wear additives that protect critical engine parts like pistons and cams. This added protection is particularly important in the extreme environments produced by today’s smaller-displacement engines that run on lower viscosity oil.

• Provides advanced wear protection
• Improves fuel economy & maintains low emissions
• Protects pistons from low-speed pre-ignition
• Keeps engines clean
• Protects in all temperatures
• Meets the requirements of popular new vehicles like the 2018 Toyota* Camry* and the 2018 Honda* Fit*

Improves fuel economy & maintains low emissions

Protects pistons from low-speed pre-ignition

Keeps engines clean

Protects in all temperatures

Meets the requirements of popular new vehicles like the 2018 Toyota* Camry* and the 2018 Honda* Fit*

Recommended for use in applications that require the API SN PLUS (Resource Conserving) specification. Use only where 0W-16 is specified. Do not substitute for 0W-20 or other viscosity.

Why No API Starburst?

The International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC) has not recognized the 0W-16 viscosity for the current GF-5 oil category, which is required to display the startburst. It will likely be included in the new GF-6 category expected in 2019 or 2020. As the API “donut” indicates on the back label, OE 0W-16 is licensed for API SN Plus (Resource Conserving).

For more information or to buy AMSOIL Synthetic 0W-16 Motor Oil